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LFW June 24 Presentation - The Creatives

London style is never a mystery to me because the UK doesn't benefit from a

balanced climate. What is a mystery to me, however, is a designer's defiance against

producing a collection that adheres to the British season. On Sunday, the 9th of

June, The Creatives held a catwalk presentation showcasing five upcoming British

designers during London Fashion Week in June. Fashion Week in June holistically

focuses on resort or menswear collections. When travelling to see these designs in

person, see a snapshot of the designers as they discuss the concept behind their

collections below.



Laura Tailor

Laura Tailor's collection championed sustainability with its founders' passion for

sustainability. In speaking with Laura about why she decided to centre her

collection around the environment, she told me that it's all about saving the planet.

Laura went on to say,

"Think about the people who dip-dye their clothes, the

pollution, and the unlivable wages that most workers make from working, the best

concept was to use what we already have and recycle that.

" Laura's collection featured six distinct looks made from denim. The most exciting

feature of Laura's collection is her attention to detail. On the back of a denim jacket

were two union jacks stitched at the rotator cuff. On all garments was stitched a

neck label that embellished Laura's motif - a style that was also seen on many

Versace blazer jackets. I particularly liked how Laura recycled her denim and gave

life to old fabric.



Archive Online

Archive Online is "an archive, not a collection" I was fascinated when I heard this

because I wasn't clear on its meaning. I managed to speak to Gracia about what this

meant, and he told me the concept derives from avoiding fast fashion. He then went

on to say that fast fashion doesn't contribute to creating quality pieces of clothing.

Embedded in some garments were barcodes at the back of 12 digits. The first six

digits are when the design was created, and the last six are when the sample was

made. The idea behind that is the items are created in advance, but it takes time to

manufacture and produce the items, making it an archive.

Another brand that had a keen eye for detail in their collection was Archive Online.

Many of the garments featured butterflies on both denim and puffer jackets. I

particularly liked the concept of the barcodes on the clothing once the concept was

explained. When I consider the rate fashion moves today and how much I wish it

would slow down, it adds depth to each garment in the closet.



Bakary Manjang Denim

Bakary Manjang is a luxury streetwear brand specialising in denim for men and

women. The label was founded by Bakary Manjang in 2019, and later, Margaret Cairo joined the team to lead the womenswear line. Having a mens and womenswear designer work

so closely is seldom seen in fashion, so naturally, I was curious about their

collaboration. Margaret began as a model for the brand, and then a few years later,

she made it known that she wanted to begin designing her own clothes. Once Bakary

began to look to expand the brand, he knew Margaret could design, which made her

the best choice for leading the womenswear line.

There were six looks in this collection, three in menswear and three in the

womenswear line. My favourite garment in this collection was a plaid-style shirt in

the mens line which featured a phoenix on the back. I paid particular attention the

BM Denim motif stitched to the women's turtlenecks which is a key stand out. It's a

clean aesthetic with a street twist.



Delta of Phoenix

Delta of Phoenix is "unapologetically feminine" It is a British label founded by

Francesca Newman, described as a sustainable and luxury womenswear brand. A

common theme throughout the evening's designers was their implicit support of

sustainability, so I wanted to understand what sustainability meant to Delta of

Phoenix, but in particular, what sustainable approaches Francesca practised when

producing.

In detailing her sustainable practices, Francesca told me that first and foremost she

makes everything herself by hand with love.

She then went on to say,

"All the fabrics I use are locally sourced within the London

area, the skirts from the most recent collection were made using archived fabrics,

and she has minimal wastage when it comes to her fabrics" due to her careful

placement when cutting.

I am incredibly fond of how "feminine" Delta of Phoenix's designs are. Bows, frills

and see-through fabric are seldom connected to femininity in our modern world

today. The word has many interpretations and Delta's interpretation appears to

champion the word in its traditional sense. I have seen a growing demand for

clothing that Delta of Phoenix specialises in, and I'm keen to witness its growth,

including how it impacts street style.


Trimingham

From the moment I saw the first model, I could tell that Trimingham is aligned with

the athleisure subsection of fashion. I was curious about this as the lead designer,

Cherise Trimingham, is a woman. None of the current major fashion brands feature

menswear lines led by women which is interesting because that is not the other way

around. We have Sabato De Sarno who leads Gucci women, John Galliano who leads

Maison Margiela and Nicholas Ghesquiere who leads Louis Vuitton.

In speaking with Cherise, her qualifications became immediately apparent. Cherise

has long possessed a sportswear degree, and alongside that, she noticed a gap in the

fashion market for luxury sportswear. At the moment, the luxury sportswear market

doesn't have any major players, and where few brands operate, they tend to leverage

the notoriety of the overall brand's legacy. Trimingham could have an edge over its

competition in terms of understanding its customer base.

In speaking with Cherise about its ideal customer,

"is a young male aged between

25-35, single, likes to spend, and holidays in Dubai or Miami who is successful

working in the city.

" Considering the effect the economy has on child-bearing, her

customer base is alive and well like ever before.

The collection was made up of six menswear looks, but the key standout for me was

a puffer gilet with the house name embossed. Gilets are perfect for three out of four

seasons (arguably all of them), and exudes luxury streetwear. My second favourite

look was a techstyle fleece and matching shorts. It's virality and flexibility is aligned

to menswear but I do believe it has unisex appeal.


Courtesy of Sama/SSEDITORIAL Magazine

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